Friday, December 21, 2007

Night over the Arno

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This Month in Florentine Braheem

*Michelangelo’s Masterpiece “The David”

*Shopping In Italy “An Interview with Anna”

*Rita and Kirk Visit the Castle! (Includes Interviews with Both)

*Having A Tough time Making Friends

*Italian TV (It aint good!)

*Olivia Braheem (Includes new interview

*Trey Braheem (Includes new interview)

*Lo Sport “The Florence Marathon”!

*A Perfect Day! San Miniato and the Search for The White Truffle

*Sienna

*Notes from the Cheap Seats (Includes: Pisa, The Truth about Rude Americans, Christmas in *Florence and Simone’s family)

Michelangelo's "David"

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The David

For my money there is no piece of art on earth better than Michelangelo’s David. I have seen the Mona Lisa, the Sistine Chappel and several other renowned pieces of art, but The David is in a league of its own. There is a wonderful back story to this amazing accomplishment (Some that we were already aware of from our previous two visits to the Galleria Accedamia, where the David lives) and plenty of new information from our trusty guide Alex.

The David - was carved by the great Michelangelo (Some feel the greatest artist of all time) between 1501 and 1504. The job was commissioned to him by the catholic church and it was intended that the David would have its home in Florence’s Famous Cathedral (Santa Maria Di Fiore “The Duomo’).

The David is Michelangelo’s depiction of the mythical figure from the bible where the young boy slayd Goliath. Upon its completion it was clear that the artist had a different view in mind for he carved The David not as a boy, but a young man. This was blasphemous to the church as it did not remain consistent with the bible and they refused to pay him his commissions and to house the work of art inside Santa Maria Di Fiore. The result was a purchase of the world’s most famous sculpture by the Florentine people as they felt it symbolized them and their struggle against the oppression of the Medici rule. The Florentine people placed The David outdoors in the huge Piazza in front of the Palazzo Vecchio (The Palace of the Medici), right next to the famous sculpture of Hercules (Which was symbolic of the Medici’s control over the republic). This is where The David stayed until 1784 when it was moved in doors to the Galleria Academia (Its current home) to protect it from the elements.

Michelangelo – From 1501 to 1504 the artist worked on no other project and spent all of his waking hours working on his masterpiece. To think that when he first began that it was simply a giant rock of Carrara Marble (From the hills in Northern Tuscany some 70 miles away) and that the final result can be something so perfect is mind boggling. Michelangelo is quoted as saying “My job as a sculpture is simply remove the excess rock to uncover what lies inside”. To appreciate the genius of this great artist, one must understand that he was the only sculptor to have ever worked on the marble direct, meaning that he left zero room for error. All other sculptors work off of a plaster mold first. An exact replica of the piece of art is first made in plaster and goes through constant modifications until perfected in size, shape and dimension. From there, measurements are taken of the plaster replica, by placing dozens of tiny nails in the plaster itself. Precise measurements are taken of the entire mold and then the artist begins to chisel at the naked piece of rock with measurements in hand along the way. As an example, had The David been done this way, Michelangelo would have been able to measure the exact distance between the eyes and the nose on the young mans face and would also have been afforded the opportunity to start over if he didn’t like the result of the plaster replication! This is why many consider him to be the greatest artist of all time (Also because of his diversity. Consider that he also painted the worlds most famous ceiling, The Sistine Chapel in Rome!), because he worked directly on the rock itself, leaving no room for error. The detail of this work is beyond that of any sculpture of its time as well. The vein protruding from his right hand that he is holding the stone that he will slay the giant with, is one of the many details that immediately catches the eye.

Finally, there is no way to begin to explain the feeling that you have when you see him (The David) for the first time. In fact each of the three times I have seen him, I have had chills run through my body. It is beauty beyond description. If there is a god, he is present in this work of perfection no doubt.

The David at First Glance

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The Holes in the Plaster...How all others create accuracy

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Shopping In Italy

Prada, Dolce and Gabana, Gucci, Ferragamo, Versace, Fendi, Paciotti, Etro, La Perla, Panerai and the list goes on. Shopping and fashion are as synonymous to Italy as slot machines are to Vegas or white sand beaches are to the Caribbean. Where Milan is known for its clothes, Venice for its blown glass and Rome for its shoes, it is the general consensus that Florence is the best all around city for shopping in Italy and one of the best in all of Europe. For some guys, this might suck, as it could represent long days at a time being drug around with the wife, watching her try on all sorts of things and spending “YOUR” money! Well, let’s just say that Anna got lucky on this one. About seven and a half years ago we came to Italy for the first time. Something strange happened to me while I was here. It was as if an elixir was snuck into my drink one day. From that point forward I became a chick when it comes to shopping. To say that the two of us are dangerous together would be an understatement. We have been waiting for some time to write about the shopping in Italy as it is without question near the very top of the list of things that we love about living here. We are convinced that we will never see all of the amazing shops here in Florence (You can bet your ass we will try though!), but we have frequented enough of them at this point to feel comfortable saying that we are resident experts on the subject! For this column it is necessary to bring in the foremost expert Anna, whom I will interview:

Q1 – I’m only going to say a few words and please respond with what comes to mind: “Shopping in Florence”
AA – “Speechless. The Italian people are all about quality and not about quantity. Its like everything else here. The houses are small as an example. You can’t afford to buy “Many” things, so they buy quality things that last for a long time. Case in point is the cashmere blanket that I bought for colds nights when watching TV. Yes it was expensive, but I bet you I will have it for twenty years (Rather than throwing it out in next seasons rather goodwill bag because I am tired of it and I never really liked it in the first place). Its soft, it’s warm and I absolutely love cuddling up on the couch with it.”

Q2 – What exactly is it about Florence that makes it such a great shopping city “Describe it to us and how it differs from home”
AA – “You have every single store that you can imagine in one area, from designer to local quality goods that you have never heard of or seen anywhere else. Its not just clothes that catch my eye everyday. Here you can get the finest paper, linens, socks, underwear etc…. it’s the best of everything all in one place. The best thing is that you go to the sock store to buy socks, the underwear store to buy underwear, the stationary store to buy stationary. The selection is so far superior when you are in a store that specializes in just one type of apparel. I love the experience of walking in this ancient city in the open air. I love not being in a mall, finding a new street that you have never been down before with a new store that you have never seen.”
The other thing that I love is that there is very limited quantities in the higher end apparel. As an example, when you walk into Etro and see something that you like, they will only have one or two of that item in your size. This guarantees you that you’re not going to see fifty people walking the streets wearing the same clothes as you. I love this.”

Q3 – Just three more words and what they elicit in terms of a response: “The Prada Outlet”
AA – “I LOVE the Prada Outlet! You’re truly getting Outlet prices and the selection is huge. It’s the same merchandise that you get at the actual Prada store but at 50% to 70% off and a season later. I’m always asking Tim if we can go. It’s a little scary at times, the magnetism is has one me!”

Q4 – What is the major difference in the way that people dress at home versus here in Italy?
AA – “At home, there is a uniform! Everyone wants to look like everyone else. Here, they strive for individuality. Its that simple, nothing else need be said.”

Q4 – Why do you think that the Italian people like to dress up so much?
AA – “It you look in their stores, they don’t have the mundane uniform that the US has with the major department store outfit. Here, you walk into a store and you find unique things that you won’t find anywhere else. The people here are much more courageous in the way they dress. Perhaps its that the people in the US don’t have an identity, unless they fit in with the masses. Here, everyone wants to be unique. They don’t want to identify with the masses.”

Q5 – Finally, every guy’s favorite subject…Ladies underwear. How does it compare here “Shopping Wise” to at home?
AA – “There is no comparison. Ask Kirk! You can pay more for underwear here than you can for a outfit at Macy’s. Its absolutely beautiful. Its something that you want to be in, and like everything else in Italy, its quality. When I go to La Perla and I cant find the bra that I want in my size, because the two that they made for that store have already sold, it makes me realize that this is NOT Victoria Secret where everyone in town is wearing the same thing. You feel good under your clothes. You really do.”

In follow up to the notion that Italians take more pride in what they put on every day versus Americans, I have some parting thoughts. There is an element to the dynamic of dress that exists here that we don’t see in Los Angeles, that I believe affects the way people see themselves. In Los Angeles (And many other places in the US) people live in the suburbs. The average American spends most of their time in the car, their home and at the office each day and very little time walking the city streets. Here in Italy, it is virtually unheard of to drive right up to your place of business or a local restaurant, park your car and walk right in. What is commonplace is to park your car and walk several blocks to your destination, therefore being seen by dozens of people along the way. This is the “Runway” dynamic that I witnessed in Paris some seven years ago, when I concluded that the city itself was simply one big runway (Like at a fashion show), with everyone wanting to look their best as they were constantly on watch. I have told Alex (Our guide) on more than one occasion that I can pick out an American tourist by simply looking down when I walk. The shoes tell the whole story! Italians simply don’t wear tennis shoes with Dockers, or Teva’s with socks (Sorry if any of you do, but this is simply the worst look on the planet!), or shorts in 70 degree weather (Much less 50 degrees). Its not that Italians don’t wear shorts, it’s that they wear them for sports, but not as a part of everyday life. Woman, don’t chain themselves to their jeans here. Its not uncommon to see an Italian woman wearing jeans, but its even more common to see them wearing a dress or skirt even in cold weather where they don fashionable (And I might add sexy) tights.

Beyond their pride in appearance, Italians have taken style and fashion to an art form. I will never forget the first time I came to Italy. Time and again, I would see men wearing color combinations that I would never fathom (A grey suit with red dress shoes, a brown suit with a purple shirt, etc…), but the bottom line is that all of them worked! One time when I was in Bellagio, in a men’s clothing shop, the guy behind the counter said to me “Why do all American men only wear black”! Very infrequently do you ever see someone in Italy taking the easy way out with a black suit with a white shirt and tie. Heck no, anyone can do that combo, this is about creativity, what the Italian people wear is art.

What really stands out however is the pride that the Italian senior citizen takes in their apparel. On a daily basis, we witness an old man walking the streets in nice dress shoes, a fashionable hat and scarf along with a stylish coat, or an old woman wearing nice boots with a flattering skirt and a scarf that ties it all together. Where this sense of pride in appearance comes, we are not yet sure and are left only to speculation. What we do know, is that it’s a true pleasure to see people taking pride in their appearance and that walking the streets of Firenze is truly candy for the eye! The fact is that many Italians are not as fortunate financially as Americans (Not certain that this should be a measurement of success by the way!) You have no idea how expensive it is to live here. When we return home it will seem like things are free (Especially food). This will be examined further in a future blog when I have compiled more data (Our experiences are perhaps jaded as a result of where we workout and the circles that we have been running in). For now, let’s just say that its really hard to make friends here. Many people are very closed and distant and it has been a challenge to take relationships past the surface level. There is no doubt that the native Florentine is a very proud individual, one who cherishes his or her city, its contributions and historical significance, but its just strange meeting a people who have such a shell around them in many ways. What is really odd is that these are the same people who have time and again gone out of their way to help when you are in need (Lost etc…), but they seem to have a small group of close friends and family and are very reserved in many ways. Perhaps this is how it is in the US for an outsider, but our experiences are different as expatriates who don’t speak the language fluently. This is not a universal statement as we have met many down to earth and open Florentines, like our neighbors in the castle, Simone’s family, my friend who works at the gym named Claudia etc.. More to come once I have done more investigating and you can bet we will continue to work hard to crack this code of making friends!

Out and About Shopping

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The Arrival of Rita

Late November brought two new friendly faces to the castle. First was the arrival of Anna’s mom Rita (AKA Gina, long story that we wont get into :>). Rita arrived to the welcome arms of our family and was a wonderful house guest for the ten days that she was with us. This was not her first trip to Italy and having been born in Malta (A small island South of Sicily) many things about Italy reminded her of her childhood and heritage. It had been over three months since she had seen her daughter and grandchildren so needless to say, she was very happy and emotional upon her arrival. It was wonderful to see Anna and her mom embrace at the airport when she arrived and the two of them spent a significant amount of time together in her ten day visit.

Trey and Olivia were really excited to see their grandma as well and the three of them had a lot of quality time together. Gina arrived on Thanksgiving Day and those of you that know my mother en law, know that she is a “Purist”, so Anna and I planned a nice surprise for her. We found out that one of our favorite local restaurants “Olio and Convivium” was serving up a traditional Thanksgiving Dinner, so we made a reservation and the five of us gave thanks in Florence, “American Style”! The dinner (Not sure why I would expect anything else) was terrific! In fact, I think that I insulted Gina when I said it was the best Thanksgiving Dinner that I had ever had! We had Turkey, pea soup, stuffing, mashed potatoes and apple pie with vanilla gelato! Damn it was good!

Much of our time while Gina was in town was spent relaxing and visiting some of our favorite restaurants. We also took a day trip to Sienna when Kirk arrived. Sienna is one of Gina’s favorite cities (Mine as well) so it was a nice treat for her to revisit the wonderful terracotta walled city (See Sienna in this months blog for more details).

Gina loved the castle as much as anyone that has visited it since we have lived here. Upon her arrival, I took her upstairs to the tower and showed her the 360 degree view. The first words that came out of her mouth were: “This is the best view in the world!” It might just be! I think that what she enjoyed the most about the castle was the “Openness” of it. She doesn’t like closed and dark spaces and the fact that the castle’s walls are nearly entirely windows, made it very enjoyable for her.

Another highlight for us was going to Santa Maria Di Fiore for mass. This is something that we promised Gina we would do with her when she arrived. I am no longer a church goer and we wont get into the reasons why in this blog, but I have always wanted to attend a mass in Italy. The service was exactly the way I remembered it from some twenty years ago and I think that the kids were shocked to see that I know virtually every Catholic prayer by heart still to this day!

Finally, a pathetic addiction took place when Gina arrived. The addiction is known as “Prisonbreakaritis”! It is defined as an inability to go to bed at night without watching at least two episodes of the hit Fox Show, Prison Break! Every night like clock work the three of us (Kirk joined in later) put the kids to bed and watched Michael Skofield and Lincoln Burrows plan their elaborate escape from prison. By the second night, Gina was hooked more than Richard Pryor liked cocaine! We watched 22 episodes in nine days! Pathetic ain’t it!

The Arrival of Kirk

For those of you that don’t know him, Kirk is my friend that I have known the longest. We were roommates in college and drank lots of beer together and share much in common. Kirk loves food more than anyone that I know (This includes myself). In fact he is also the best chef that I know and author of the Everyday Gourmet Newsletter, so his arrival had the same impact on food that Steve and Emma’s had on shopping and wine! I was counting the days in anticipation of his arrival and had an agenda set to ensure that the culinary experience of Italy was all that he hoped it would be. When I picked him up from the airport, I immediately took him to Georgio, the best Pasticceria in Florence. One day after another we had nothing but insane meals, including one that we prepared together at the castle for the family. One the menu that night was calamari sautéed in white wine and olive oil with tomatoes and fresh arugala. This was followed by Branzino (Mediterranean Sea Bass) baked in a salt crust and finished with some fresh new Tuscan olive oil, and accompanied by potatoes roasted in the oven with rosemary and olive oil. It was yummy.

Kirk arrived five days after Gina and the two of them left on the same day. Even though his visit was brief, having Kirk in town was a terrific time and we made the most of our five days together. The motorino served as our key to the city’s secrets and we spent a lot of time ripping through the streets of Florence to see its history and architecture.

One would never accuse Kirk or Gina of being shy, so the two of them together made for an energy that kept things light and fun. Together we shared great times in Sienna and at the numerous restaurants that I was so excited to take him to. Kirk shares his feelings about Italy’s food, the castle and his time with us in his interview below.

An Interview with Grandma Rita (aka Gina)

Q1 – How did you feel when you arrived and saw Anna at the airport, after not seeing her for four months?
GA – “I felt fantastic. I thanked God that both of you were there and that I had a safe journey. I had mixed emotions. Seeing you both but then knowing that I would have to leave in ten days. That was mixed emotions for me.”

Q2 – What was the biggest difference that you saw in Trey and Olivia after not seeing them for four months?
GA – “They have grown, both physically and they are both more mature. I’m impressed by Trey’s reading habits and how much he has matured. He’s growing into a young man. I’m really impressed how they both wake up so early for school and neither of them whine about it. Olivia has grown and is as beautiful as ever. I love her long beautiful hair and I am so pleased to see how she entertains herself. I’m really impressed with her reading and spelling.”

Q3 – You have been to Florence before, but this time you got to spend a lot more time in the city. What are your feelings about this Renaissance city?
GA – “I think that its just awesome. The Duomo is breathtaking. Its something that everyone in the world should see at least one time. Its incredible. The fact that we went to mass as a whole family there was really a highlight from the trip. Praise the Lord. I was impressed with the huge grocery store and how you take your shopping cart up the escalator without it rolling back down, even if you let go of it! Its such a fascinating city in the center with all the amazing coffee shops, the pastries, the marvelous restaurants. Oh my god the food was terrific.”


Q4 – The Castle, what are your impressions of staying there?
GA – “Its an experience that I will never have again in my life. I will never forget it. I can’t really describe it. Its just amazing.”

Q5 – You are Maltize (From the island of Malta). What are some of the things about Italy that remind you of your home land?
GA – “Oh my goodness. The architecture, accept we don’t have roofs like they do here. We have flat roofs that you can walk on. The windows and the balconies, the narrow sidewalks with dog poop on them!, The traffic!

Q6 – What are your favorite memories of this trip to Florence?
GA – “The marathon was a wonderful experience. That was a great day. I loved standing next to Trey, when he was yelling BRAVO for the runners. Sienna was one of the highlights too. I really loved meeting Alex, she is a wonderful person. I have always loved Sienna and would have been sad had we not gone to Sienna. Sitting down every night with Tim and Anna and watching Prison Break, I really enjoyed that very much.”

Q7 – What was the biggest surprise about your visit?
GA – “Oh the surroundings of the castle. I have never seen so much forest and land. Its so beautiful. Its like a fairy tail. One morning I was looking out the window after it had rained and all the trees with the water dripping off them, looked liked they had Christmas lights on them. Every day you see something different at the castle. All the colors, the people burning trash and the smoke in the sky. My final word to describe it was MAGICAL.”

Thanksgiving Italian Style

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Schmoozing with the Policia!

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Livy and Grandma

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An Interview with Kirk

Q1 – Kirk, you are a chef and one of the things that Tim and Anna wanted to make sure that you experienced was the food of Florence. What are your impressions now that you have been to many of their favorite restaurants?
KA – “I’d say that my first impression is that you start to realize the countless options in the Italian cuisine. Everything from the pastas, to the cheeses, to the cold cuts to the various styles. There is such a wide array of foods that its impossible to taste it all in a week. I’d say that the second impression is that the consistency of really good meals and the amount of stuff that tastes home cooked. You know that this is real food that is cooked in a manner that is not only indicative to this area but also has a history to it. Your literally tasting history!”

Q2 – What was your favorite eating experience and what did you enjoy about it?
KA – “ I think that ironically, my two favorite were lunch yesterday (Cantinetta Veranzano, which was also my mom and dad’s favorite!) and the one we had at the Enotecca (Wine store). In comparison, they were the most simplistic meals we had. The raw ingredients really shined and you were able to see the artisan quality of the ingredients. The salami, the cheese, the olive oil, the bread, the tomatoes all paired with a fantastic wine showed that it doesn’t take a lot to make a fantastic meal with the right ingredients. It was magical.”

Q3 – What was the biggest surprise about your visit to Florence?
KA – “How nice everyone is dressed on a daily basis. Just seeing people doing their daily business and no one dresses like a slob. Its not just clothing. Its their hair, their bodies, these people just look good!”

Q4 – What did you think about the castle?
KA – “ Oh man, where do you want me to start. The only way to describe it, is that its an opportunity of a lifetime to stay here. Somehow this huge fortress feels like a cozy home. This home just happens to have a 360 degree view of a fabulous city!”

Q5 – What was your favorite memory of the visit?
KA – “ I would have to say that it was a combination of you (Tim) and I spending so much time together. This is the first time in ten years that I had you and your family all to my self. I have not had this degree of personal time in more than ten years. From there, my specific memory, was you and I going to San Lorenzo market, going to dozens of vendors. From there we designed the menu for the night, figuring out which vendors had the best ingredients and from there making a wonderful meal for your family.”

Q6 – You have visited Florence before, but it was many years ago. What are your thoughts and feelings about this Renaissance city?
KA – “While it is a haven for tourists, its sort of a closed off society. While at first it puts you off to hear it, it’s a city that you desperately want to be a part of! There’s a social aspect to this society that I truly envy. I was walking around today by myself and watching how many people were just walking around doing nothing (They were walking with their girlfriend, window shopping, having a coffee). At home, I leave the house with a specific reason and purpose. Here they seem so connected with each other and want to simply be with their native Florentines and the city itself. You can tell that they love their city. I cant say that I have that same relationship with the city that I live in.”

Q7 – Kirk, you and Tim had a ton of laughs when you visited for the past five days. What one sticks out in your mind as your favorite funny moment?
KA – “Lets just say that my first favorite funny moment would not be appropriate for this blog! Aside from the numerous great times of our past that we got to relive and retell, I would have to say that the Dutch boy hair cut of the dried fruit vendor at the San Lorenzo market was tough to beat. It’s a helmet of sorts!”

Celebrating a Well Made Meal

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Scoping Out San Lorenzo's Produce

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Kirk and Anna in Sienna

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Making Friends Ain't Easy

Man, I’ll tell you, as time has elapsed it has gotten even more difficult to make friends. Its not for a lack of effort on my part either! I go out of my way to say hi to virtually everyone at the palestra (Gym) but more often than not its me who needs to initiate the conversation and at times the response can be downright chilly (Again, not completely sure just yet as to why Florentine’s are so cold, but I will get to the bottom of its origin in time)! It surely doesn’t help that I am incapable of having much in the way of conversation in Italian.

When Kirk was here, I was telling him that the nature of my dialogue is extremely superficial: “Ciao, come stai? Bene, I tu? Bene Gratsie. Hai buno fine settimana? Si. Che si fa?” (Then a whole bunch of things, many which I don’t understand. Following a look of deer staring in headlights, I reply “Hai Buono Giornata. Anche Te.” That’s it! Pretty much the same routine day in and day out. The translation is pretty simple: “Hello how are you? Good and you? Great thank you. Did you have a nice weekend? Yes. What did you do?” Then a whole list of things that the person did, which some I get and some I don’t! By this point, I’m so self conscious of the way my glassy eyes look that I say “Have a beautiful day. You too” they respond! Lots of studying to do on the flight. Next year needs to be about having a meaningful conversation with people :>)

Anna, on the other hand does much better than I in understanding what people are saying. The differences with her to two fold: 1. She is much more shy and really doesn’t seem to care so much about making friends AND Italian woman are simply much more closed, period! The number of times that Anna gets a complete “Once Over” from head to toe is beyond the point of calculation! There are certainly many guys at the gym that are willing to engage in conversation with me, but once again, my abilities are somewhat limited.

The result is that I have a totally new appreciation for people who come to America with a native tongue other than English. I never realized how self conscious I would be about speaking in Italian.

Italian TV

Well, lets put it this way, the days of having over 200 channels on Direct TV are long gone, at least in English they are! Since our arrival we have had a satellite dish (Even at the first property that we lived in during August), but the TV here is simply not what we are used to. We have “SKY TV” which consists of about 100 channels broken up into various categories like: Sports (Only one freaking ESPN channel, which is ESPN Classic, but who the hell wants to watch hours of old Formula One races from the 1970’s and Soccer games from when Pele was is diapers!), Ragazzi Music (This is what those that have Direct TV refer to channels 295 to 305, lots of cartoons for the kids. The only drawback is that all but one channel is in Italian!), Cinema (This is the section that has movies. The problem here is that a new release these days is The Departed. Yes they are a bit behind in their movie watching in Italy!), International (This is the section that has all the international news channels. Yes FOX News is still slanted, opinionated, yellow journalism here just like in the States!). By now you get the point. There is very little TV watching here in the castle as there is simply nothing worth watching. BUT, we have found a solution! Its called the international DVD player and buying TV series from the US! Anna and I have fallen into a groove of watching TV shows that we never had time to watch back home (What some would call a groove others would call an addiction that is deserving of visit to Betty Ford). In the month of October, we were glued nearly ever night to the TV (After the kids were in bed of course) watching “Weeds” (If you have not seen this brilliant show it plays on Showtime). Steve and Emma got us hooked on Weeds like we were addicted to crack. We finished two seasons in slightly over a month.

Early November brought my mom (An avid Prison Break viewer) and the introduction to Michael Skofield (Anna’s new heartthrob! Yes, move the hell over Orlando Blum, your DONE!). For those that have not watched Prison Break, its on FOX and a pretty darn good show. So good that from the 5th of December when my mom arrived, through the 30th of November when Kirk and Gina were here, we watched the first to seasons. For those counting that’s a whopping 44 episodes! Our record was four in one night! Sickness is an applicable word. In case anyone was wondering what we asked Santa for Christmas, its for a gift card to Best Buy so we can feed our new habit.

Olivia Braheem

Well, she did it! Olivia can now ride a bike without training wheels! It simply took her building up the guts to go faster and she was off to the races! There have been many opportunities for me to help Trey in sports, which naturally leads to achievement and parental pride, so I very much wanted to be actively involved in helping Livy learn to ride a bike. When she finally figured it out and rode without my help (Albeit for thirty or forty yards) and turned and gave me a high five with a huge smile on her face, all I could think of was “I am so glad that I didn’t miss this moment. This is why I took a year off work”. She was so afraid for so long and it was so nice to see her confront her fear and the smile said it all when she finally figured it out.

School continues to be extremely enjoyable for Olivia, where she has several friends and is advancing rapidly in her reading skills. She did have a little incident occur in late November, when she came down with a case of lice! This kept her out of school for a couple of days until things cleared up, but I think that she actually preferred being home with mom and dad as she had us all to herself!

There have been some moments of late when Olivia has become very sad and has asked to go “Home Home” as she calls it. Seeing her grandparents aided in this as she misses the four of them dearly. She seems to go back and forth on this issue quite a bit. At times we are a bit confused as to whether its best for both of the kids to be reminded of home because it makes them sad at times. This is something as parents that Anna and I struggle with from time to time (What is best). The fact is that they are in a difficult spot as children. They know that this journey has an end to it and for this reason they cling to the things that they have at home. The other children that they go to school with are here preeminently for the most part which allows them to live more in the moment than the past at times. On the other hand, Olivia and I were talking in the car the other day on the way back from school and she brought up several things that she was going to miss about Italy when we go home. At the top of her list is her teacher Ms. Benadetti who she loves very much. Rather than speak for them, we will examine this in their individual interviews this month (See below).

From an activity perspective, Livy continues to go to swim class twice a week and also has become active at school. In early December her class had a two hour “Camp Fire” exercise after school where all the kids sat around a little fire with their teacher and told stories about their lives. This was an extremely enjoyable day for her. ISF has some very strong attributes as a school that I think that American schools should adopt. The kids are given many activities to participate in, which they enjoy very much. In early December, the parents were invited to attend a holiday recital at a local church where the entire student body sang songs for us. It was quite special. The kids practiced hard for this event for nearly a month and learned ten different songs (Some in English and some in Italian) and were very proud to sing them to us.

Livy also attended a two day field trip with her class where they went to a toy factory and learned how toys were made! The second day included them making their own toys (Hand puppets), which she was very proud of. I think that its fair to say that Hidron (The water park from last summer) is still Olivia’s (And Trey’s) favorite place to go in Florence. We visited there again this past month and even mom went down the water slides with the kids (This is like seeing a lunar eclipse “Anna in a pool” :>)

An interview with Olivia:

Q1 – What will you miss the most about Italy when you go home for two weeks?
OA – “I don’t know, but I think that I will miss school. I will miss my teacher and my friends. I will miss playing with them.”

Q2 – Why do you like your teacher Ms Benedetti so much, what makes her a good teacher?
OA – “She’s sweet and she is really nice to me. She makes us learn a lot and she is smart.”

Q3 – Since Santa is coming soon, what did you ask for for Christmas?
OA – “Well Daddy, my list is really a secret, but I will tell you one thing. I want a toy monkey.”

Q4 – How did it feel to learn to ride a bike without training wheels?
OA – “It feels good and cool. Now if I really practice, I can ride a bike like Trey. I was excited when I did it. I’m happy that I have learned to ride a bike.”

Q5 – How did it feel to see your Grandma Gina when she came to visit?
OA – “Happy, happy and more happy. She surprised me when I came home from school.”

Livy with her teacher Ms. Benedetti

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Look Mom no training wheels!

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Livy and Dad at the Water Park

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Trey Braheem

The big event of the last month for Trey was going away for one night and two days to Torino (Turin) on a school field trip to the museum of Egyptian Archeology (The second largest in the world). Kirk was in town, so he and I took Trey in the early morning to a meeting place near the school, where we dropped him off at the bus. The first question that his teacher (Ms. Raffanti) asked me when we arrived at 6:30 am was “Is he nervous, because many of the kids are?” The answer was summed up in the fact that he was already at the door of the bus laughing and talking to his friends. Its so interesting how much this adventure has made a difference in Trey. He has grown up so much in the past four months. In fact, Anna and I can’t believe that its only been four months when you measure it against his growth. Not once during the days building up to the field trip did he show signs of nerves and all the way up to departure, he was nothing but excited to experience some independence. That night, we received a call from Ms. Raffanti to give us an update on how Trey was doing. “He’s had a smile on his face the entire day” she explained. As it turned out, Trey didn’t like the museum as much as he thought he would (His reasons are in this months interview) but all in all, it was a great two days for him as he loved hanging out with the boys and being a nine year old all on his own without mom and dad there to correct him!

In the past month, Anna and I were successful in convincing Trey that he needed to participate in more than just tennis (When it rains, there is no tennis class, so there can be several days between physical activities), so we finally convinced him to take swimming as well. We needed to twist his arm pretty hard, “I already know how to swim, he kept insisting.” When he finally went with me to the tryout, he was a bit humbled by the fact that he scored the same as his little sister!!! Trey takes swimming one day a week, while Olivia has class twice, so the race is on to see who can master the four strokes of swimming faster! More to come…

Like Olivia, Trey too has had his bouts with missing home off and on. It seems to happen following his experiencing something that reminds him of California (IE talking to his buddy Holden on the phone, his grandparents visiting, etc…) but all and all Trey is getting adjusted quite well to life in Italy. Trey is a very different kid than his sister and it takes him much longer to make friends. The friends that he has at home are “True Friends” in mine and Anna’s eyes. The type of friends that you have for a lifetime because you have so much in common and the personalities mesh well. For this reason the adjustment to life in Italy has been harder on Trey. Anna and I are a bit concerned as to how difficult it will be on both of the kids when we leave the US on the 2nd of January to return to Italia. The bottom line is that Trey is looking forward to spending much of his waking hours with the boys back home, riding his bike and talking Poke Mon.

One thing that has made the adjustment that much easier is Trey’s liking for his teacher Ms. Raffanti. From the first day of school and the parent teacher conference, Anna and I were immediately impressed by her philosophy on teaching and she sure has Trey in a good space mentally when it comes to school. What a difference a year makes. Last year was his worst year of school (Not academically, but in that he really disliked his teacher and most all other things about Carden in Westlake). This year is his favorite year and he simply loves his teacher. In fact in the holiday card he gave to her he said “Dear Ms. Raffanti, Buon Natale (Merry Christmas). Thank you for being my teacher. You are the best teacher that I have ever had and I love being in your class!” Those were purely his words. No intervention from mom and dad on that one!



Q1 – What will you miss the most about Italy when you go home for two weeks?
OA – “I’ll miss the food a lot. I will miss our friends here like Blaze, Diego and Simone and Giovane (The bus driver), I will miss living at the castle because we are so high up and can see all of Florence.”

Q2 – Why do you like your teacher Ms Raffanti so much, what makes her a good teacher?
OA – “She’s really nice and she is very easy for me to understand. She tries to make learning fun. She’s the best teacher I have ever had.”

Q3 – “When you think of the first four months in Italy, what are the thoughts that come to your mind?”
OA – “Well the first thought is that it was really hard at first, but its progressively getting better each day. We are learning more Italian which makes it easier and its starting to feel more like normal living.”

Q4 – Tell us about the field trip to Torino. How was it to be alone (Without mom and dad) for one night?
TA – “I thought that the museum was kind of boring because we didn’t see everything and the guide only showed us the most important things. There was basically just a bunch of pottery and statues. I really liked the monastery that we slept in though. We had a huge room with five beds and a really big bathroom. The beds were really comfortable and my two friends (Blaze and Diego) were my roommates so it was a lot of fun to be with them for two days. It was fun to be away from mom and dad for one night!”

Q5 – How did it feel to see your Grandma Gina when she came to visit?
TA – “I was really happy for her to come to Italy and was really excited to see her. She was the second family guest and I had not seen her in a long time. I finally got to see her and was fun to have her stay with us for those days.”

Trey and Diego at the Water Park

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Trey and his buddy Blaz

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Lo Sport (The Florence Marathon)

While Trey and Olivia continue to spend time on tennis and swimming, the subject of sport has been reduced to virtually nil for yours truly. No golf, no college hoops on the tube, not a clue as to who is number one in college pig skin (Then again, neither are any of you with the ridiculousness that is the College Bowl Series!) only an occasional Steeler game broadcast via the web on nfl.com. So out of a bit of desperation, we decided to attend the 26th annual Florence Marathon! The main reason that we attended on a drizzly Sunday morning was that the owner and two waiters from one of our favorite local Trattoria’s were running in the race and we wanted to show our support. In total, 7500 people from various parts of Italy, Africa and the US ran the race (Rita actually met one of the runners from America on her flight over to Italy!). The race started at 9:00 am at Piazza Michaelangelo and finished 26 miles later at the Church of Santa Croce (The church where Michaelangelo is buried!) Anna, Rita, the kids and I showed up at the finish line at around 11:15 shortly after the first few dozen runners crossed the tape. For the next two hours, our sole responsibility was to breath whatever energy we had into those whose tank was running low and had only a quarter mile to the tape. One by one, man and woman passed us, some in pain, others in ecstasy as their goal was about to be fulfilled. In a former life (Some 23 years ago) I ran in two half marathons (13 miles) while a cross country runner in high school. I swore that I would never EVER do something so crazy again, much less run twice that far. No, the three miles I run every day on the treadmill is plenty. But something happened that day, as I watched those runners celebrate their accomplishment in the shroud of Trey’s and Rita’s cheers of “Bravo”, an appreciation for the amazing sacrifice that a runner has to make of both their body and mind to finish a race of that distance. I’m not referring to the professional runners of course. I’m referencing the folks that crossed the tape that are just like all of us, the housewives, the waiters, the grandfathers who sucked it up and made it for 26 miles. Heck, I was so inspired, that I made a deal with Trey that in ten years (When he is 19 and I am 50) that if he runs a marathon, I will run it with him!

For us, it was surprisingly one of the more enjoyable days that we have had since coming to Italy. Rita had a blast as well. Why was it so fun to stand for two hours and cheer for total strangers? I think that the answer is human nature. Its fun to help others I guess. These were people in dire need of energy and we had it to give. It was fun to see their reaction when we shouted out our encouragement, when we turned their grimace to a smile.

Our Friend Antonio

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Thriving off the Crowds Energy

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The Pain of mile 26!

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San Miniato and the Search for Truffles

Perhaps you read the article on the internet about three years ago, when a record was set for the worlds most expensive truffle? (It sold for $112,000!) The uncovering of this gem took place in San Miniato Italy, a small hilltop village about 45 minutes from Florence. For those of you who are not familiar with “What” a truffle is, don’t ask me! That’s what Wikipedia is for!
A "Tuberacae" truffle refers to a fungus that grows attached to the root system of an oak tree in the Mediterranean Europe.
Truffles are often hunted for by dogs or female pigs. Truffle hunters use female pigs because of their acute response to the odor produced by the truffle, however on discovery they tend to eat the truffles rather than recover them. In light of this, dogs, which are more easily controlled, are trained to use their keen sense of smell to locate truffles. Tuberaceae truffles emit the scent of a male pig and thus attract the female pig.
Now is that doesn’t sound like something you would love to put into your mouth, I don’t know what does :>)
Seriously though, there are few things on earth more delicious than truffles (Emma Silverman would tell you that there is nothing better!) and every fall, in France and Italy, its truffle season. So Anna and I decided to head to San Miniato to check out the town, its church and find a local restaurant that would serve us up some of those things that smell like male pig! Did we ever find all of these things, for this was one of those days that we came to Italy for. We walked the nearly empty streets of San Miniato in the light rain and stopped by a local gastronomia shop and purchased a small white truffle for home (We shaved that little sucker on some ravioli as well as on scrambled eggs the next day!
Following our truffle purchase, we ducked into its main church atop the hill (San Miniato is a walled town). There is a story behind this beautiful, somewhat simple church (Anna’s favorite in all of Italy thus far, which is really saying something!). During World War II, the German’s took about two hundred residents as hostages in the church. The American’s were unaware that there were Italian citizens inside the church and thought that there were only German soldiers holed up inside. They dropped a bomb on the church’s Dome, accidentally killing nearly two hundred civilians. We were the only ones in the church that cold morning when we arrived and there was a deeply spiritual feeling as Anna and I sat in silence and thought of that day some 60 plus years ago.
Finally, we jumped into the car and grabbed our trusty book (The one that Claire Leheny gave to us) that has time and again turned up terrific hidden little places to eat in Tuscany. Our journey took us 12 miles from the hilltop town famous for its Truffles, to a little Trattoria in a small village. As has been the case so many times, we scored a direct hit and had an amazing meal. Anna and I shared ricotta ravioli with fried sage and fresh grated truffles that were to die for. Or second dish was a grilled pork loin that was crisp on the outside and so tender that it melted in your mouth on the inside. Anna had hers topped with fresh grated white truffles and I had fresh porcini mushrooms. This one will go down as one of the truly great lunches, great days and some of the best quality time that Anna and I have had together on this four month adventure!

***Footnote: Since this post was written, the record was broken in near by Palaia where an even larger Truffle was found and sold for $330,000 to a man from China!

San Miniato Truffles

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Sienna (One of Italy's Great Cities)

There are few places in Italy (Or on earth for that matter) that in our opinion are more magical and charming than Sienna. This was the fifth time we visited the hilltop walled city in the past five years (We rented a villa two summers in row near Sienna and went there often). There is something about the ancientness of the city, the charm of its terracotta walls, the narrow, winding, and hilly cobblestone streets, that make it like visiting a fair tail. Few small towns have such unique history and tradition as well. This plus the fact that Kirk had never been to Sienna (And the fact that Grandma Gina happens to adore the city as well) made it a lay up shot for us to visit.

We decided this time to bring Alex along and although she is not an expert on Sienna, she certainly knows much more about its history than you will find by touring inside its walls on your own.

Sienna and its patrons fought two great battles with Florence in its history, the first in 1260 and the second (Which lasted 15 months) was during the rule of Cosimo the 1st in 1555. This final battle had much to do with the establishment of Florence’s supremacy in the Tuscan region. Today Sienna is the home of one of the greatest sporting spectacles on the planet “Il Palio”. This medieval horse race is run twice annually (July the 2nd and the 16th of August) and attracts people from all over the world to witness sport as it used to be! The race has been run twice a year for more than 800 years and pits ten horses against each other each time. There are many things that make the Palio unique from anything that you have ever seen. Here are some important facts:

Inside the walls of Sienna are 17 “Contrada” or neighborhoods as we would call them. Each neighborhood is comprised of approximately 1500 inhabitants.
Every year, each Contrada raises money to buy a horse with hopes that it will win the Palio.
Three days before the race a lottery is held and ten horses are drawn from ten different neighborhoods.
The race is run following a four and a half hour parade and is held in the famous Piazza called Il Campo. Il Campo is one of the great piazzas of Italy and all of Europe. Its bell tower alone is 88 meters high and towers over the city.
Il Campo is NOT a complete circle, in fact there are a couple of near dead right turns.
The starting line is a rope and the races begins with the firing of a gun. There are many false starts.
The winning horse is the one who circles the track three times and crosses the finish line first, EVEN IF IT DOES NOT HAVE A JOCKEY ON IT!
There is no such thing as second in this race! You either win first of you lose and disgrace your neighborhood

We went to the Palio in 2004 and it was to this day one of the greatest events I have ever witnessed. The raw emotion of the 30,000 people that packed themselves into every nook, cranny, balcony, window sill and alley to catch a glimpse of the race is like nothing we see in the states. The winning contrada is so happy when its over that they carry the jockey from the track and most are weeping in happiness as they march him back to their neighborhood to party all night long. The losers are more down than any fans I have ever seen. In fact Anna saw one fan actually punch the horse that came in second! When I said that Sienna has history, I meant it!

We spent an entire day walking the streets of Sienna, hanging out at Il Campo and visiting its amazing Cathedral. Following our tour the five or us had a great lunch at a local trattoria before heading back to Florence.

The Fearless Foursome Touring Sienna

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Sienna's Beautiful Cathedral

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The Tower of Il Campo

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Notes from the Cheap Seats

The Quote of the Month! –

There are many phrases and sayings that I have heard since coming to Italy that I feel are Hall of Fame material, but this one is at the top of the list. One day while touring with Alex, she said “La Mamma dell coglione e’ sempre in cinta”. The translation: “The mother of the stupid is always pregnant!” Think of this one the next time you see a half a dozen different people do stupid things over the course of a day!

Classness Americans!

I know that I run the great risk of sounding unpatriotic when I say this, but sometimes my fellow Americans embarrass me when I see them around town! Here are some quick observations:
They are loud and obnoxious
They dress like slobs and lack pride in the way they look
They have some of the worst table manners I have ever seen
They don’t know how to behave in restaurants
They act like they own the place

Gosh, when I go back and read some of these observations, you would think that I am French! Yes, I am going on record as saying that the French are right about us. Americans are less cultured and need some lessons on manners.

I know these are generalizations for the most part and that not all Americans are this way, but I’ll be darned if I don’t see it on nearly a daily basis. As an Example, I will never forget the lunch that I was having in Split Croatia one day and the American politician that was sitting with his seven friends at the table next to me. One of the advantages that I have is that I look the part of a Mediterranean, so it’s incredibly easy to eavesdrop on conversations that are taking place in English.

The group of eight was a mix of people from various parts of the world (Likely visiting on a cruise ship). One man and his wife were from India, another was clearly a Britt, but it was the American couple that stood out like a soar thumb.

It began when he returned from the bathroom and loudly complained about the quality of the facilities. I am no one to criticize, as I have pointed out in previous writings that toilet facilities in Europe don’t meet our lofty American standards, but at least I have tempered my opinions in public and left them to the privacy of the 52 people who receive this blog! “The European people should be ashamed of themselves for the lack of pride they show in their public facilities” stated the 65 ish year old man, who was clearly from somewhere in the Southern part of the US. “Having to pick up a toilet seat from of the bathroom floor is simply inappropriate”. Great, thanks for letting everyone know that you had to go number “2”, while we are all trying to figure out what to order for lunch I thought!

Fast forward 45 minutes when the same man received his soup. “Waiter, Waiter…this soup hardly has any meat in it! Why is their so little meat? (Like the waiter is in charge of deciding the ingredients for the food!) Take this back and ask the cook for more meat!” There was no please, no thank you, nothing. This is exactly what I mean. The unfortunate fact is that I see things like this all the time, especially at restaurants. If you just sit and watch you will see a whole slew of things from American tourists that you wont find in their European brethren, like “Double Dipping” their bread in the olive oil, using there finger to assist in scraping the last bites of food off the plate and then putting their finger in their mouth, etc…

The Uffizi Gallery "The World's First Museum"

It’s truly a shame to place the world’s first museum on the “Cheap Seats Section” of Florentine Braheem, but unfortunately (Or perhaps fortunately for some of you :>), museums don’t translate well when you can’t see the works of art, this will be brief. The Uffizi Gallery was opened in 1580. Not only was it the worlds first museum, but it is considered by most to be one of the top museums in the world today. It houses some of the worlds greatest oil on canvas, including the original of Botticelli’s Venus and the famous La Primavera (You may think that you have never seen these two before, but I bet you have and just don’t know them by name). The Uffizi also has original works by Leonardo Da Vinci. His paintings reflect the natural world which is what he dedicated his life study to as well as the world of invention. Michelangelo (Who didn’t really like to paint much) has an original oil on canvas in the Uffizi as well (The Holy Family) which he painted in 1507. Once again, Pope Leo (The one who stayed at our castle) was depicted on canvas and this time at the Uffizi in a 1518 work by Raffaello.

The works that are depicted in the Uffizi Gallery is the greatest collection of Renaissance art in the world. The Renaissance was a time “New Beginning” and it showed in the expression of the worlds great artists. This was a time when all trends were “bucked” so to speak. For the first time, artists took great risk in going against the catholic church and showed pagan gods in their expression. Art became realistic for the first time (Real Life people were painted rather than symbolic examples). It was also the first time that artists showed the naked body in their works (Which of course is why this is such a great place to visit :>)

Felice Natale (Merry Christmas!)

We of course will not be spending Christmas in Italy, but rather at home in California, but in the days building up to our departure we were able to witness some extremely beautiful holiday spirit. The residents of Florence for the most part don’t live in free standing buildings, therefore the existence of Christmas lights on houses is nil. However the city of Florence does an amazing job of getting into the holiday spirit, especially in the center of the city where dozens of streets are the home to amazing holiday light shows! Additionally, Piazza Republica has an outdoor carousel and a huge decorated Christmas tree. The spirit of “Natale” is alive and well here in Italy and in many ways is more authentic than that of America. It differs in its lack of a “Santa” presence and with more focus on the origin of Christmas (Each church has an elaborate nativity scene at this time of the year). Finally, perhaps the most glaring difference is the absence of the chaos of the American mall during the holidays. This is something that Anna and I speak about often, how much we love shopping at numerous small merchants, where you speak directly to the shop owner rather than a high school kid who is working a temporary job for the two weeks of winter break.

Felice Natale in Firenze

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Florence's Amazing Holiday Spirit

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